Chamois Standard CS 99
by the Sponge and Chamois Institute

The Sponge and Chamois Institute has uncovered increasing evidence of lack of public awareness of the distinctive properties and qualities of chamois. This condition appears to result In part from lack of a widely published industry definition of the term. "Chamois" originally referred to the skin of a certain variety of antelope. but over the years came also to refer to products of spilt sheepskin Advisory Opinion Digest No. 1 of the Federal Trade Commission further treats this subject.
It has long been recognized that the tanning agents employed in processing chamois significantly affect the characteristics of the product, fish oil being the usual tanning agent. Federal Specification KK C 300 of the United States General Services Administration establishes a number of requirements to be met by chamois products purchased by the Government. This industry standard. unlike the Federal specification, is not intended to establish any minimum or differential grades or qualities for chamois. but simply to define the term as generally understood in the trade. The definition adopted is based on origin processing, physical characteristics and chemical characteristics, since these factors account for the distinctive properties of chamois.
The Standard adopted is the product of several years of effort, including research into government publications and consultations among tanners. both foreign and domestic and distributors. and represents general understanding and industry practice. It is recognized that revisions may be needed from time to time. Suggestions for any such revision believed necessary may be addressed to the Sponge and Chamois Institute 60 East 42nd Street. New York, N.Y.10017.

1. Scope:
This Standard covers the characteristics for genuine chamois made from sheepskin or lambskin fleshers, fish oil tanned.

2. Purpose:
2.1 This Standard is not intended to establish grades or quality differentiations of genuine chamois. It is specifically intended to define the general characteristics and performance characteristics of the genuine chamois skin as a basis of identification only, without regard to size or configuration. I( is for whole skins or any cut patterns derived therefrom, and not for pieced skins.
2.2 The General Characteristics in Section 3, Physical Characteristics in Section 4, and Chemical Characteristics in Section 5 are such as may be met by any correctly oil tanned chamois.
2.3 It is specifically intended that compliance with this Standard shall not be claimed, referenced, or, in fact, be recognized, for any products meeting only parts of the combined Characteristics in Sections 3, 4 and 5. Reference of compliance to parts or Sections of this Standard shall only be made, when the statement of partial compliance is accompanied by a specific enumeration of the numbered Sections of the Standard for which compliance is not, or cannot be claimed.

3. General Characteristics:

3.1 MATERIAL. Chamois shall be made from undersplit of sheepskin, or lambskin, split before tanning.
3.2 TANNAGE. Chamois covered by this Standard shall be full fish oil tanned so as to produce a soft absorbent material. No combination processes of tanning, utilizing cod or other oils in mixture with significant amounts of other tanning agents, as described in Table II, Chemical Characteristics, shall be permitted.
3.3 FINISH. Chamois shall be suede finished an one or both sides.
3.4 COLOR. Chamois shall be the natural color obtained from oil tannage. It shall not be subjected to any form of chemical bleaching or dyeing.

6. Marking:
6.1 Each skin shall carry the identifying mark, name or trademark of the distributor, or other person entering the skin into commerce for purposes of retail sale.
6.2 Compliance with this Standard does not give any right to use the registered trademark of the Sponge and Chamois Institute for Genuine Chamois except where specific license for such use is in effect.

7. Test Procedures:
The following procedures shall be used to establish conformance with the provisions of this Standard. Questions relating to procedures and lest methods shall be verified and arbitrated through the official published methods of the American Leather Chemists Association, c/o University of Cincinnati, Cincinnati, Ohio.

B. Reference Documents:
The latest issues of the following:
1) Federal Specifications:
KK L 311, Leather, Methods of Sampling and Testing KK C 300, Chamois, Leather, Sheep skin, Oil Tanned
2) Published methods of the American Leather Chemists Association
3) License Agreement for the Chamois Mark of the Sponge and Chamois Institute

1. Test Methods
(a) Physical Characteristics (see Section 7.0)
1) Median thickness. Thickness shall be determined by the average of five measurements taken an equal distance along the lengih dimension, in accordance with applicable portions of Method 1011 of Federal Specification KK L 311a (January 19, 1953).
2) Breaking strength. Shall be determined in accordance with Method 2031.1 of Federal Specification KK L 311a, Amendment 4, Part 3 (November 6, 1962).
3) Water absorption. Water removed by wringing shall be determined in accordance with paragraph 4.3.1 of Federal Specification KK C 300c (June 13, 1969).
4) Time of wetting. Shall be determined in accordance with paragraph 4.3.3 of Federal Specification KK C 300c (June 13, 1969).

(b) Chemical Characteristlcs (see Section 7.0)
1) Total ash. Shall be delermined in accordance with Method 6421 of Federal Specification KK L 311a (January 19, 1953).
2) Iron and Aluminum Shall be determined in accordance with Method 6531 of Federal Specification KK L 311a (January 19. 1953).
3) Chromic oxide. Shall be determined in accordance with Method 6521 of Federal Specification KK L 311a (January 19, 1953) and footnote 4 of Table 2, paragraph 4.3 of Federal Specification KK C 300c (June 13,1969).
4) Free formaldehyde. Shall be in accordance with paragraph 4.3.4 of Federal Specification KK C 300c (June 13, 1969).
5) Acidity gpH). Shall be determined in accordance with Test Method 6621 ot Federal Specification KK L 311a (January 19, 1953).
II. Testing Lot
For compliance determination purposes, testing shall require submission of no less than six skins selected at random.